Build this simple motorcycle alarm circuit yourself - using veroboard and a few cheap off-the-shelf components. In will sound once only.
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# Motorcycle Alarm No.9 - Test Procedure

Free Circuit

Simulation

## Introduction

The prototype of this Motorcycle Alarm was built using only the Stripboard Layout as a guide. So - if you have faithfully reproduced that layout - you will have a working circuit.

Once you're satisfied that your layout is correct - and you have made a careful and thorough check of the underside of the board - it's time to power-up the circuit and test its operation. This is always an anxious moment. If you construct a lot of circuits - you might consider building the Current Limiting Power Supply - or alternatively - you could add the Simple Current Limiter to your existing PSU. Both will let you set an upper limit on the amount of current supplied to your circuit - and so protect it from any serious damage.

## Setup

A resistor and an LED are all that's needed to demonstrate that the "Siren" output is working properly - and you can simulate the switches using four lengths of wire.

Because the "Key Switch" terminals are connected to the positive line - and the "Tilt Switch" terminals are connected to the negative line - it's IMPORTANT that their respective wires should never come in contact with each other. So make the pairs different colours - and different lengths.
 Connect two short lengths of flexible wire to the Key Switch terminals. Strip the ends of the two wires - but keep them separate from one another. Connect two longer lengths of flexible wire to the Tilt Switch terminals. Strip the ends of the two wires - but keep them separate from one another. ========= Connect an LED - in series with a 2k2 resistor - across the Siren terminals. I used a Yellow LED in the diagram - but you can use whatever colour you have available. ========= Finally, connect the 12-volts DC to the input terminals. Pay particular attention to the polarity of the supply. Note that the negative lead goes to the bottom terminal. Before you turn on the power - make sure that your Key Switch wires are not touching your Tilt Switch wires. ========= Turn On The Power. Nothing should happen. Take the two blue wires - connected to the tilt switch terminals - and touch the ends together. Nothing should happen. Separate the blue wires again - and do the same with the two red wires - connected to the key switch terminals. Again - nothing should happen. ========= Next - take the two red key switch wires - and twist the ends together. Then take the two blue tilt switch wires - and touch the ends together briefly. The relay should energize - and remain energized. And both the yellow and the green LEDs should light - and remain lit. This means that the alarm has triggered correctly. And that the Siren output and the activation Indicator are both working. ========= Wait for about a minute or so. The relay should de-energize. The green LED should remain lighting. But the yellow LED should turn off. This means that the siren cut-off timer has worked. ========= Next - touch the ends of the blue tilt switch wires together. Touch them together as often as you like. And hold them together for as long as you like. Convince yourself that the alarm will not re-activate. That is - convince yourself that the one-time-only feature is working. When you're ready - separate the key switch wires. ========= Repeat the test. Begin by twisting the red key switch wires together. Then take the two blue tilt switch wires - and this time - twist the ends together. As before - the relay should energize. And the yellow and the green LEDs should light. This means that the alarm has triggered correctly. And that the siren and activation indicator are both working. ========= Wait for about a minute or so. The relay should de-energize. The green LED should remain lighting. But the yellow LED should turn off. This means that - even with the tilt switch permanently closed - the siren cut-off timer still works. ========= Again - separate the blue tilt switch wires. Then touch them together as often as you like. And hold them together for as long as you like. Convince yourself that the one-time-only feature is working. When you're ready - separate the key switch wires. ========= Finally - repeat both tests as often as you like - until you're satisfied that your circuit is working reliably. Between each test - separate the red key-switch wires briefly. This turns the alarm off - and then on again. It allows Ty1 to unlatch - and the siren cut-off timer to reset. =========

## If You Find a Problem

This circuit uses tried and tested components and techniques. When it's assembled as described - it should work first time. If you've designed your own Stripboard / PCB layout - or you're simply trying the circuit out on a breadboard first - check your work carefully.

If you haven't used the specified transistors - make sure that the ones you have used are PNP. And - check their Pin Configuration. Just because they look the same as the BC557 - don't assume that their pins are arranged in the same order.

If you haven't used the specified thyristor - check the pin configuration of the one you have used. Even if it looks the same as the TICP106D - don't assume that its pins are arranged in the same order.

If you haven't used the specified relay - make sure that your relay has the same Pin Configuration. Just because it looks the same - and fits into the layout - don't assume that its connections are arranged in the same pattern.

If you've built your circuit using the specified components - and you've followed the step-by-step construction guide described on the Support Page - then the chances are that any bug will be caused by something minor - a component connected the wrong way round - a missing or unwanted solder bridge - an incomplete cut in the track etc. If an LED is not lighting - check that it's the right way round.

If you've cut the board to size - examine the edges where the copper tracks end. Look for loose particles of metal - left hanging by the saw. These particles can short pairs of adjacent tracks together. Remove them with emery paper - or a small file.

Next - double-check that all of the cuts in the tracks have been made - that they're In The Right Place - and that they sever the tracks completely. Use a magnifying glass - and backlight the board. It only takes the smallest strand of copper to cause a problem.

When you're satisfied that the tracks have been severed in all the right places - check that you have made - and correctly placed - the three solder bridges. These are just small blobs of solder - used to connect the adjacent tracks. Mark the three bridges with a felt-tip pen - or something similar - so that they can be easily identified later.

Next - carefully examine the full length of each track. Look for unwanted solder bridges. Your felt-tip marks will tell you which ones should be there - and help you to identify any that shouldn't be there. If you backlight the board during the examination - it makes potential problem areas easier to spot.

If all else fails - and you still haven't found the cause of the problem - work your way through the assembly instructions on the Support Page. Check each individual component and link - to make sure that it's present and correctly positioned.

Print out the drawings and mark off the components as you go. Take your time and examine each individual component carefully. If you do it right - you'll only have to do it once. Pay particular attention to the orientation of the diodes - the transistors - the SCR - and the electrolytic capacitors.

Motorcycle Alarm No.9 - Circuit Simulation
Main Features Ron's Circuits Write To Ron More Free Circuits Construction Guide